What is garment pressing?
The process by which the unwanted creases or wrinkles are removed from garments and the smoothness, brightness and beauty of garments are increased is called garment pressing. In Bengali language, pressing means calendaring of garments. In garments industry, pressing is called ironing also. In a garments factory, there is a separate section for the purpose of pressing or ironing. In order to presenting the garments beautifully and attractively to the buyers, the role of pressing is very much important.
During pressing, the amount of temperature is based on the types of garments and the nature of fabrics, which is predetermined. Specially, if the pressing is required at more than 100 degree centigrade, then the head and the buck are kept in locking conditions in steam press for 10 to 30 seconds. Just after the pressing, the pressed garment is made cool by air suction so that no unwanted crease or wrinkles take place in it during the handling and it can be pressed rapidly.
Purposes of Pressing:
The main purpose of garment pressing is to increase the beautification of garments. Objects or purposes which are done for increasing the beauty of garments by pressing are discussed elaborately in this article.
A. Removal of unwanted creases and wrinkles: During making of garments, for many reasons, the incidence of unwanted creases in garments or wrinkles in fabrics may happen. After washing and drying of garments also the creases may happen. Pressing is done in order to remove these unwanted creases or wrinkles in garments.
B. To apply creases where necessary: Sometimes creases are given in some parts of a garment for the purpose of increasing the beauty of the garment. Besides this, for sewing properly, sometimes creases are given in fabrics of some parts before the moment of sewing. Pressing is done for giving creases in these desired places.
C. Shaping: For the purpose of making garments adjustable to the shapes of various parts of human body, darts and seams are used. For making more beautiful and attractive of the special shapes created by dart and seam, pressing is done, which is called shaping. For the purpose of shaping, shrinking and stretching may be required for some of the parts of a garment. Generally, pressing machine with special shaped bed is used for shaping.
D. Under pressing: For the convenience of easily and beautifully sewing of garments, some parts are pressed before sewing, which is called under pressing. Especially for making of coat, jacket, trousers etc. under pressing is done in most of the factories. But after making of the garments, final pressing is also done.
E. Final pressing: After making of the garments, the last pressing, before packing of the garments, is called the final pressing. The brightness of garments increases as a result of final pressing. Depending on the quality of fabrics in garments, the types and intensity of pressing are determined.
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Categories of Pressing:
Garments may be of various types, especially the designs and the materials of garments. The types of pressing in a garment will depend on the types of the garments and the design and material used in the garment. Five types of pressing have been identified based on the necessity of the pressing in garments and the intensity of the pressing and discussions about them have been made below:
A. No Pressing: There are some garments, where no pressing is required, such as, underwear, briefs, swim wear etc. These garments are generally made with knitted fabrics.
B. Minimum Pressing: There are some garments which can be finished by applying heat only, no need of applying any pressure. For example, night gown, t-shirts of knitted fabrics, leisure wear etc. The job of pressing is done in these garments by heating with steam and drying by flowing of dry air, which is called light pressing.
C. Under Pressing: For the convenience of sewing, some parts of a garment are lightly pressed before sewing, which is called under pressing, such as, creasing or gathering of some parts of a garment, which is done with the help of iron before sewing. If unpicking is required due to defects, then under pressing is done before re-sewing.
D. Final Pressing: The process of pressing of garments in high temperature and pressure is called final pressing. Final pressing is generally done in jacket, trousers, skirt etc. Final pressing is done by specially made pressing machines.
E. Permanent Pressing: This is special type of pressing by which the shape of a garment or some special status, such as, print, crease etc. are made permanent, which are not deformed or damaged despite repeated washing. In this type of pressing, high temperature and steam are used and pressure is required in some cases and pressure is not required in some cases. Elaborate discussion has been made later on about permanent pressing.